Monday, 29 August 2011

Adventurous Burda Style 08-2011-130 shorts, Jalie top, sewing for camp

My younger daughter is firmly of the belief that she requires completely new clothes for any special occasion or trip away, so I should not have been terribly surprized when she announced on the weekend that she had no clothes to wear to school camp.
She fancied these "heavy jersey" trousers in our current Burda Style magazine, and whilst declaring that the corduroy shorts version were ugly, felt that "heavy jersey" shorts would look terrific.
I was a bit sceptical. I am unfamiliar with the "genoa corduroy" Burda advises for the shorts, but it seems to me that a pattern for a knit fabric should be different from the pattern for what I assume is a woven fabric, and the Burda patterns for the two different versions vary only in length. I also thought that the fastening of the knit with snaps over the hip would be prone to bagging.
I offered my daughter a red denim with about 3%lycra, or a mysterious probably poly, heavy and extremely stretchy black and white check that was given to me a few years ago. I was pretty sure she would choose the denim, but know from experience that it is best to offer this particular daughter a choice of fabrics.
I was quite wrong about her choice, she picked the mystery super stretchy woven. As this fabric had been selected from the dress-up pile, I had nothing to lose.

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I made no pre-cutting alterations to the pattern (Burda size 36), but cut out the shorts in a single layer to allow matching of the checks - the fabric was a bit scanty for perfect matching at the waistbands, but I did my best.
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I added woven selvage to the crotch seam to reduce bagging during wear, and applied clear elastic to the upper and lower waistband seam, stretched very slightly, to prevent excess stretch during wear without recovery.

I made the back darts a little wider during fitting, but the shorts needed no other changes, aside from a tiny extra overlap of the waistband at the fastening that was managed with button placement. This truly makes me appreciate the genetic advantages I have given my offspring by marrying a slim man with long legs ;).
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I used the clean facing method I first saw at the Slapdash Sewist's blog for the side opening button plackets. The interfacing is one designed for knits, as I was not sure that the fabric would tolerate much heat from the iron, and the knit interfacing fused at the lower temperature.

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I was anxious about the buttonholes, this fabric is really stretchy. I backed the placket with heavy calico (muslin if you are North American) to make the buttonholes more firm, then pinked most of it away.

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Next I made a black Jalie sweetheart top. Apparently these shorts look awful when worn with the t-shirt tucked in, and I am under strict instructions to describe the previous photographs as purely for sewing only exhibition of the trousers and to show you how the outfit will be worn properly.

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My daughter is very pleased with her outfit.
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It even stands up nicely to vigorous activity.



17 comments:

Sharon said...

Wonderful shorts and the Jalie top is perfect and a very photographic model.

Ruthie said...

Great shorts and tee for a lovely girl who is obviously also a bit of a character! YorkshireLass was also eyeing up that pattern and I was all dismissive about it, but am obviously proven wrong, as its great in the knit. Thanks for all the tips about the little extras you did.

Carolyn said...

Very nice! It is great that she loves and appreciates your creations! Was that fabric really in the "dress-up"? Hmmm, looks very lovely to me...

liza jane said...

I love the trick of backing the button holes with muslin. Family affirmation, right? They look great on her. And how sweet of your daughter to tuck in the tee for photos :)

Handmade said...

They are just the cutest shorts - you're so clever!!! And the top - lucky daughter!

sewing spots said...

That is a great looking outfit! I agree with your daughter--there's no time like a trip or special event to realize you have wardrobe gaps!

countrygirlcouture said...

Ooh! I really like those shorts, they might work perfect for my rather straight up/down waist to hip ratio. It doesn't look like it gapes very much at all on the side, so it would be worth a try, and you can never have too many pants. ;-)

Debbie Cook said...

Fab new outfit. Your daughter is gorgeous! (And I'm positive some of those gorgeous genes came from you!)

Mary said...

What a great outfit-the shorts fit perfectly, and I really like that top.

Mary Beth said...

Completely A-dorable! Thanks for the pix, I had been wondering about that pattern IRL

PepperToast said...

Oh! I am so happy to see these pants made up and you addressed my concerns re: pattern to fabric suitability.

Very lovely daughter in a lovely outfit!

Audrey said...

I love those shorts in the check fabric. They make a cute outfit with the black top. Your daughter is really pretty. Are you prepared for all the boys that will be coming around to see her?

Mary Nanna said...

What a gorgeous outfit! Now I have a standing order from Burda from a local shop which means it is shipped here not air freighted, I have seen this pattern on line and decided it was definitely in my future. Who could resist the darling button feature? Being the fogey I am, I will be making it in cord with vintage buttons. For a teenager, the fabric choices and styling is spot on. Lucky lucky daughter to have mum to sew for her.

shams said...

What a great outfit! Very cute. Once again, you are the Super Mom!!

Bernice said...

Dress-ups for Bookweek, yoga pants before school starts, new outift before camps starts...it's all go-go-go in your family isn't it! Must make you feel like quite the super-mum.

Janine said...

Ha! such a nice mum -I make my girls wear their old clothes to school camp. I also think that you should take some credit for your daughters lovely features. I did however marry a man with 6/6 vision and so far my girls my escaped inheriting my severe short sightedness.

Gail said...

Your DD has a strong sense of style - I think I'd like to make these pants too.